Why Barolo is Italy’s King of Wines

They say that Barolo is the ‘King of Wines and the Wine of Kings’. It is certainly a very special, complex red wine from the region of Piedmont – known to Italians as Piemonte. It is made from 100 per cent Nebbiolo grape and produced exclusively in the very heart of the Langhe, that glorious land of soft hills and medieval castles, romantic villages and deep forests just south of the town of Alba. Eleven municipalities in the Langhe form the official areas of production for Barolo, and give the wine its DOCG classification, which is the highest classification that Italian wine can be awarded. The classification  Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (‘Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin’) means that there are controlled production methods (controllata) and guaranteed wine quality (garantita) within each and every bottle. The eleven villages that make up the official production area are Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba, Cherasco, Diano d'Alba, Grinzane Cavour, La Morra, Monforte d'Alba, Novello, Roddi and Verduno.

The wines of the Langhe have a long history, although Barolo’s earliest origins are somewhat mysterious. However, it is widely believed that Barolo has been produced in the region for about two centuries. The Nebbiolo grape, from which Barolo is made, has been cultivated in the Piedmont region since at least the 18th century. Nebbiolo, named after nebbia, the Italian word for fog, flourishes in the foggy autumn months typical of the Langhe. In 1751, a batch of ‘barol’ was sent to London where it was apparently received with enormous enthusiasm.

But Barolo did not always hold such a prestigious royal title. Prior to the 19th century, Barolo was a very different wine, mainly due to the natural cold-winter climate of the Langhe region. Fermentation would often halt prematurely in the cold cellars, which would leave residual sugar in the wine, resulting in a wine that was semi sweet and slightly fizzy (as described by Mr Jefferson), bearing little resemblance to the structured, tannic, dry red we recognise today.

The early transformation of Barolo is largely credited to Juliette Colbert Falletti, the Marquise of Barolo. Juliette came from a noble French family and, in 1806, married Carlo Tancredi Falletti, heir to a dynasty that controlled many of the castles to the west of Alba, including Barolo. In the 1830s, Juliette recruited a French oenologist called Louis Oudart, who introduced modern vinification methods to the production, ensuring complete fermentation in order to produce a dry, robust wine. He also introduced aging the wine in large wood casks, enhancing its ability to mature and develop complexity over time. This marked the birth of what we now recognise as modern Barolo and it is from this couple, key figures in the Piedmontese chapter of the Italian Risorgimento, that the wine took its name.

During this same period, Count Camillo Benso di Cavour, the prominent statesman and key architect of Italian unification, took a keen interest in the region’s viticulture. Alongside Juliette and Carlo, Cavour was also a significant contributor to the wine’s fame. He invited Oudart to work on wine production using the same progressive techniques at his estate in Grinzane, a small community dominated by the castle of the same name where Cavour lived from 1832 to 1848. Through Cavour’s political and social influence, Barolo began gaining recognition across Italy and amongst the European nobility. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Barolo had secured its reputation as a wine of great distinction.

Barolo’s noble beginnings are also inextricably linked to the Savoy dynasty, which is one of the oldest royal families in Europe. The Royal House of Savoy were instrumental in advancing and developing Barolo wine during their governance of the Piedmont region while orchestrating the Unification of Italy from their royal palace in Turin. Their support for Barolo wine had a profound impact on the local economy and culture. By establishing prestigious vineyards and fostering the promotion of quality winemaking practices, a sense of pride and tradition for their winemaking skills grew among the people of Piedmont. This legacy of excellence would continue to shape the future of Barolo, and subsequent generations of winemakers continue to build upon the work and investment carried out by their noble predecessors.

During subsequent years, local winemakers did not refine their skills, and the Savoys’ viticultural advancements sadly did not evolve. In the 1950s, many younger generations chose to move from the Langhe to Turin, where a steady job at a car factory provided an escape from their challenging rural lives. Barolo wine production was largely considered unprofitable and during this time most farmers would store just a barrel or two in their cellars, purely for family consumption.

The next transformation of Barolo wine began in the 1970s, when Elio Altare – the young son of a local farmer – recognised the need for a new identity for Barolo. Together with Chiara Boschis, Elio and a few other friends began a challenging journey of numerous attempts and experiments. The young winemakers collaborated to enhance the quality of their wines; their goal was to create the finest wine possible in a shorter time frame, allowing it to be enjoyed much sooner than the typical twenty years of aging that was traditionally required. A young Italian-American wine importer called Marco de Grazia joined the team, and in 1993 organised their first US marketing tour, which earned them the nickname of the ‘Barolo Boys’ and so shaped the modern era of Barolo winemaking, elevating the quality and appeal of Barolo for the global stage.

Traditionally, Barolo was aged in large wooden casks, often made from chestnut, which gave the wine a more rustic and robust flavour. Wine production was carried out in musty cellars where a barrel passed down from one’s grandparents was cherished as it was too costly to replace, yet all too often too old to enhance the wine. The Barolo Boys changed all that by introducing the idea of aging Barolo in French barrels. These smaller barrels, called barriques, hold 225 litres, and they helped the development of more nuanced flavours, such as vanilla and spice, which allowed winemakers to produce a more refined and elegant wine.

The Barolo Boys also embraced modern viticultural practices. They focused on improving vineyard management, implementing sustainable farming methods, and carefully selecting the best grape clusters for production. These practices provoked difficult generational conflicts, as the older farmers struggled to accept these innovations and traditionalists continued with time-honoured methods.

Barolo wine production was also influenced by the changing preferences of consumers as the global demand for high-quality wines grew and grew. Winemakers everywhere continually improved their techniques and explored new approaches. This spirit of experimentation in the wine world led to the development of different styles of Barolo, each with its own unique characteristics.

Barolo has such a rich history, from its noble beginnings under the House of Savoy to the innovative contributions of the Barolo Boys, although it has to be said that traditionalists such Angelo Gaja and Marco Ferrero accused the Barolo Boys of bowing to international fashions and of betraying the wine’s local heritage. This ultimately led to the continued development of different styles of Barolo. Some producers focused on creating traditional, full-bodied wines with a long aging potential, whilst others went for more approachable wines that could be enjoyed at a younger age. All this gave rise to what was known as the ‘Barolo Wars’.

Behind each sip, there is a story of great resilience and transformation, with each generation of winemakers building upon the legacy of their predecessors. The Savoy dynasty laid the foundation for Barolo’s enduring prestige, and the innovations introduced since have given it a special place on the global stage. The vineyards within the Barolo appellation, each with its own distinctive terroir, all contribute to the wine’s diversity and complexity, whilst the unique combination of climate, soil, and topography create the perfect conditions for the cultivation of the Nebbiolo grape. Another important feature of Barolo is its impressive ageing potential. Even after a mandatory ageing period at the winery of at least 38 months, of which 18 must be in barrel (for the Riserva it’s at least three in oak, two in bottle), top-notch Barolo can continue to evolve for several more decades in the bottle.

Tasting Barolo offers a glimpse into the rich history and dedicated, often hard-won craftsmanship behind each and every bottle. The wine’s aromatic intensity, firm structure, and remarkable aging potential make it a very special wine indeed. Each bottle of Barolo is a testament to the enduring allure of this iconic wine from Piemonte, and its place as the ‘King of Wines’ is richly deserved.

How to enjoy Barolo with food

Barolo’s vibrant acidity, high tannins and complex, intricate flavours make it the perfect companion for full-flavoured dishes, but when pairing the ‘King of Wines’ with food, just remember to keep the food relatively simple. Don’t overpower the wine with too many different flavours or complicated sauces, as you might just miss some of the wine’s finesse.

The most classic pairing is with rich red meats and game, particularly if the meat is marinated in Barolo as well. High tannins and acidity can offset the fattiness of meat, while the wine’s full flavours really complement the powerful tastes of the meat. Or try it with a rich mushroom risotto, or roasted pork or duck. Or hard cheeses such as an aged Parmigiano Reggiano or a savoury, salty, intense pecorino. Or a dense, hearty ragú over egg-rich pasta. Or sip whilst nibbling a few squares of good quality dark chocolate.

And of course, one of Piedmont’s best loved specialities is the truffle. White truffles in particular are just a fantastic match with Barolo.